Easter in Prague

May 14, 2014  •  Leave a Comment

Astronomical Clock We left cute and cloudy Cesky Krumlov around noon on the Friday before Easter and headed back to the Prague airport.  We went a slightly different route than the one we took to CK and just loved the countryside -- even when it was pouring rain.   But of all times to rain, doing so while we were in the car worked in our favor.  All told we experienced very little rain during our 10 days in Europe (quite the contrast to our Italy trip two years ago).  Once we returned the car at the airport we hopped a cab into Prague.  Our hotel was in the Potato Dumplings Czech Style heart of it all -- just a few steps from the Astronomical Clock tower.   Our room was on the highest floor (4th floor) and we had a tiny little landing with views of the tower.   Super fun!

We spent our first couple of hours in Prague in Old Town Plaza - we watched the astronomical clock strike 6pm and we ate our way through the large Easter market.   It was here that we saw several Trdelnik booths and tried what was the first of many.  Trdelnik is a bread (which reminded me a great deal of the bread my mom uses to make Polish babka), wrapped around a pole that spins over charcoal and bakes.  When it's nearly finished, they spray on butter and then the final step is to roll it in cinnamon, sugar and almond bits.  We LOVED it.   That night we also tried their potato dumplings in all sorts of flavors - and I voluntarily ate sauerkraut!  My Polish roots were feeling quite at home in the Czech Republic. 

Sunset From the Klementinum At 7pm we were at the Klementinum for a tour of what we thought was the Hall of Mirrors, the location for our 8pm Easter Concert.   But the tour ended up being much more and very cool!  We walked through the Hall of Mirrors and then up through into the ancient and beautiful library (no photos allowed) and then up to the astronomical tower.  The views were gorgeous, we were right in between the Prague Castle and the Astronomical Clock Tower and the Our Lady Before Tyn church.  Plus, we were up there as the sun was setting and it was perfect.   We lingered long enough that we just barely made it in time for the concert.    The concert was a special Easter concert with an organist, a violinist and a soprano and baritone.  It was very well done and we really enjoyed it.    After the concert we walked towards the Castle by way of the St. Charles Bridge.   It was one of our only nights that Lee didn't haul around the camera bag and it was really pleasant to just meander.  Prague is a beautiful city.

Trdelnik

Saturday we were dedicated tourists.  And we were among thousands of them.  We couldn't believe how many people were in Prague -- walking across the bridge felt like we were at the beginning of Bay to Breakers-- hundreds of people back to back.  It was a little overwhelming and to be honest, detracted from our experience.  Just way too many people.   After making our way across the bridge and up the hill, we arrived at the castle just as the "changing of the guard" was happening.  From there we purchased tickets for the abbreviated tour (circuit b) and headed into the castle.  We spent most of our time in St. Vitus Cathedral.  The stained glass windows were impressive.  

Petrin Observation Tower

The part of the castle that was available with our ticket wasn't all that impressive, we didn't spend much time there.  We probably should have visited Prague before Cesky Krumlov -- Cesky Krumlov set a pretty high bar.  :)  We also enjoyed the smaller basilica - St. George's.  The simplicity of it was beautiful.   We bypassed the "golden lane", due to the crowds and then went to the gardens where we wandered until we decided what to do next.   That "next" was a walk to find food!  Fortunately for us the little plaza outside the entrance to the castle had tasty sausages, more potato dumplings and trdelnik.  And that trdelnik was huge, warm and delicious.  The best ones we had all weekend!   

Prague Castle at Sunset While we were on that side of the city we decided to walk through the park up to the top of Petrin Hill to the observatory tower (modeled after the Eiffel Tower).    We were pretty wiped out and we decided to recharge on the park bench for awhile.  It was a much needed break but we unfortunately missed out on the sunny skies.  Before we knew it the clouds rolled on in and our hope for a sunset from the tower fled.  We still climbed on up to see what we could see, but then we headed back down the hill and walked along the river and hung out on the bridge until dusk.   From there we found a place to eat a late dinner and called it a day. 

 

Our paddle on the river Sunday was the last full day of our trip.  We decided we couldn't handle any more of the crowds and opted out of the "tourist attractions".  Instead we followed the advice of a friend of mine who had lived in Prague to do a few things that were off the beaten track.   Fortunately we were slow enough out the door that we were in the area to hear the serenade of Easter morning bells from the church outside our hotel.  I've always loved church bells and on Easter morning they were especially pretty.  We then walked south until we got to Vysehrad - a fortress on a small hill with a church, cemetery and great views of the castle.  Our Sunday afternoon was probably the highlight of our time in Prague.  We walked along the river from Vysehrad to the St. Charles Bridge.   Halfway to the bridge there was a little island that had a paddle boat rental and we spent a leisurely and sunny hour on the river paddling around and checking out the views of the castle and bridge Our paddle on the river from the water.   We wished we had rented the boat for longer.  We really enjoyed it.   We then walked to Wenclas Square where we heard there were more Easter markets.    The markets there weren't as impressive as the ones outside our hotel, but the nearby daily market was a hit.  We found some fun little wooden tulips to bring home with us. We (I) then blew the rest of our Czech Crown wad back at the main Easter Market in Old Town Square on all sorts of fun colored, hand painted wooden and hollow (real) eggs.  

Old Town Plaza from Terrace Restaurant

We attended an organ concert on Sunday evening.  The concert was at 6pm in St. Salvator Church near the bridge.  The venue and the program weren't quite as impressive as the Easter concert from Friday night.  But it was still really nice and Lee loves listening to the organ.  For our last night in Prague we decided to eat at the restaurant at the top of the Hotel U Prince.  The food wasn't much to rave about, but the view was!  Our reservation was for 7:30pm so we were able to watch the sunset and then see the church, astronomical tower and city St. Charles Bridge light up before we finished.    We returned to the plaza for a few more photos of the towers and steeples of the Our Lady Before Tyn church (some say it inspired Disney's Sleeping Beauty Castle) and then walked out to the bridge one last time.   The following morning our trip came to an end and we had to head back home.   We were sorry to have our trip come to an end, but were very grateful for the opportunity to have gone.  We had such a great time.  Now that we're back, it's time to start planning another.  

 

 

 

 

 

 


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