Rue de Buci We loved Paris! This came as a bit of a surprise to us both as we're not typically fans of big cities and the last time I was in Paris (2000) I wasn't all that impressed with it.  But this trip was entirely different.  Perhaps it's getting older, perhaps it's the traveling companion that made the difference.  But I also found the Parisians friendlier that I had remembered, the streets were clean and being there in the spring when everything is in bloom was marvelous.  Boat ride up the Seine at Sunset

We arrived by way of train (we took the Chunnel) and navigated the metro with our bags to arrive in the 6th district just off of Rue de Buci where we stayed for four nights.  We absolutely loved our neighborhood.  The narrow streets were pedestrian friendly and lined with bakeries, a delicious gelateria and little shops.    The restaurants were open late and the neighborhood had a great vibe.  We'd love to stay there again and spend more time wandering within St. Germain de Pres.  Really terrific area.

Notre Dame Our first evening in Paris we opted for a boat ride on the Seine.    We had some time before it left and we wandered up to the Seine for a stroll and found the cutest little park where families and friends were out playing lawn games.  I loved the atmosphere.    Our boat ride left at 7pm.  We  strategically picked that time thinking we would have a leisurely float up the river to be at the Eiffel Tower near sunset.  We were quite surprised when we were at the Eiffel Tower within 10 minutes and turned around the other direction within 15.  The Louvre by Night Fortunately the boat continued past the point where we boarded and when we returned to the dock around 8pm the sky and clouds were pretty remarkable from the sunset.   We more than made up for not seeing the Eiffel Tower at sunset the next three nights.  After our boat ride we wandered to both the Louvre and Notre Dame.  Seeing impressive buildings all lit up at night is one of our favorite ways to see places.    We brought the tripod this time around and with Lee's new camera he was able to get some pretty great pictures of both the pyramid and the church.   Then, close to midnight we wandered back to our neighborhood for crepes with nutella and chocolate before calling it a night.  

Breakfast Treats from Paul Our mornings in Paris were slow starts.  We would sleep in and then walk across the street to one of the two bakeries and purchase chocolate filled croissants (the first morning they had just come out of the oven and were heavenly) or beignets - also chocolate filled.  Boy did we love breakfast!  The first morning we were in Paris was a Sunday.   We thought we were super strategic and planned to arrive at St. Sulpice just as mass was ending in order to catch the impromptu 25 minute organ recitals that follow mass.  We didn't take into account that it was Palm Sunday and not only did mass start an hour later than we expected but ran at least 30 minutes longer.  So we got to enjoy (in French) nearly an entire Palm Sunday mass.    Poppies of Luxembourg Gardens It was worth it though to listen to the organ.  Especially for Lee who plays and has studied the organ and was aware of the significant role of that particular organ.    From the little concert we walked towards the museums.   After purchasing the museum pass we fell into the Tuilleries Garden on the way to the Musee d'Orsay.   We loved the Tuilleries.  The trees were blossoming, the flowers were in bloom and the Parisians were out and about.  I could have just hung out in the Eiffel Tower at Sunset from Parc du Champ de Mars park for hours.  We didn't stay long (although we did return once or twice more) in order to get to the Orsay in ample time to explore that  museum before it closed.  I've always loved the Musee d'Orsay - the building itself, the impressionist art, it's location.  I far prefer it over the Louvre.  This year there was a special Van Gogh exhibit while we were there and we got to see additional paintings that normally are housed  elsewhere.  It was a treat.  When we left the museum we decided we wanted to appreciate more gardens so we walked all the way to the Luxembourg Gardens where the poppies were gorgeous!  We relaxed a bit and then realized (inefficiently) that we wanted to go to the Champs des Mars and hope for a sunset behind the Eiffel Tower.  So off we went on our little feet back toward the Eiffel Tower.   Although there wasn't much of a sunset, we still enjoyed watching the sky dim and the Eiffel Tower lights turn on .  It was a relaxing and enjoyable evening.    We concluded our night with dinner at the Chalet Gregorie (right next to our hotel) that served Reclette!  One of my favorite meals that reminds me of the Alps.  It was the perfect end to a great day. Views from Notre Dame

 We intended to get up a little earlier on our second morning, but the late nights just didn't lend us the energy for early starts.   So once we were fueled by beignets we wandered by way of the historic American bookshop to Notre Dame.  The line to climb the tower was RIDICULOUS. I sent Lee off to photograph to his heart's content the exterior of Notre Dame while I waited, and waited, and waited in line some more.   Finally, 2+ St. Chapelle hours later we were at the front of the line.  Lee joined me and we climbed our way to the top for great views of gargoyles and Paris.  After enjoying the views we headed inside to admire the stained glass and then over to Saint Chapelle.  It's always wise to visit Notre Dame  before Saint Chapelle as the stained glass there is incomparable to most anything else.  Unfortunately for us the renovations on Saint Chapelle are still underway and we weren't able to see the rosette window, but it's still gorgeous and Lee loved it.   From Saint Chapelle we wandered to find lunch (which tended to be crepes of one form or another), visited the exterior of the Louvre - (we got lots of photos of that pyramid) and then walked through the Tuilleries and along the river to meet our prearranged guided tour of the Eiffel Tower. Views from the Eiffel Tower

We had read that getting tickets in advance to avoid the lines at the Eiffel Tower was key to Paris success.  Unfortunately for us, the basic tickets were all sold out in February when we read about the tip.  So instead so signed up for an "Easy Pass Tour" that cost more, but we got to skip the lines and get 60 - 90 minutes of Paris trivia from a guide who accompanied us to the 2nd level of the tower.  We were lucky and got a really great guide.  We learned all sorts of information some of which we found quite entertaining.  It was great.  That's how we spent Eiffel Tower from the Trocadero the first 60 minutes of our evening at the Eiffel Tower.   Then, from 7 - 10pm (yes that's three more hours) we spent time on the 2nd level and the summit for views and hundreds of pictures.  The view was pretty great, but I tell you what - it was COLD and I was hungry and snacks were limited and at a premium price.  2.50 EUR for a Kinder Bueno!  Finally, around 10:30pm we climbed down the stairs and made our way to the Trocadero for guess what?  More pictures of the Eiffel Tower!  The Eiffel Tower at 1am This time the view was even more spectacular since there was a full moon on the rise and right behind/next to the floodlit tower.  After nearly another hour we found ourselves in an overpriced (yet still open ) restaurant at 11:30pm who was willing to make us dinner.   When we had warmed ourselves (I was chilled to the bone) and were satiated we went back to the Trocadero for one last look at the Eiffel Tower.  Our guide had told us that at 1am the flood lights on the Eiffel Tower turn off for the night and from 1:00 - 1:05am the sparkle lights are the only thing lit on the tower.  Considering we were in the vicinity and unlikely to be there again at that hour, we decided to wait up for it.  We decided it was well worth the wait.  A very cool view!  By the time we were done the Metro had been long closed for the night and we hailed a cab and returned to our little hotel room on Rue de Buci - completely exhausted.

Tuesday was our last day in Paris.  We originally planned on going out to Versailles, but ultimately decided we would save that for another trip.  We wanted instead to wander the streets of Paris and do a little shopping.   As you can guess, we had a slow start in the morning and then just started walking.   We walked past Notre Dame on our way to Ile St. Louis where we discovered a delicious chocolate and cookie shop. We made a few purchases and then continued on our way into the Marais District.  The streets there were lined with fun shops, trees, interesting buildings and parks.  Sacre Couer Our favorite was an old library with the neatest doors and windows.  We had hoped to eat lunch at a well known falafel joint - but as luck would have it it was closed for the week.    After spending time in Marais we opted to take the Metro up to Montmarte to see Sacre Couer and to wander the streets there.   Lee loved Sacre Couer.  He thought it was the most gorgeous of the churches we visited (but no photos allowed inside).  The towers stayed open longer than expected so we got to climb to the top and check out the views from there.  It was a lovely afternoon/early evening.    We eventually took the metro back down to the Concorde Plaza and walked down the Champs Elysses to the Alexander the 3rd  bridge where we watched the sunset one last time behind the Eiffel Tower.   Once we finished our one thousandth picture of the tower, we began the long walk back to our neighborhood where we found dinner before retiring for the night.

Sunset from Alexander the III's bridge The following morning we left - but not without enjoying a Parisian hot chocolate and final beignets and croissants from a little table on our street.  We certainly loved Paris.  It's definitely our favorite big city and we are looking forward to returning.  We have a list of things we want to do, places to visit --- I have a feeling that in a couple of years after another Skoll World Forum, we'll be back!