Day Six of the AV1 - Passo Staulanza to Tissi

December 25, 2015

Mondeval and Piz del Corvo The day we hiked from Passo Staulanza to Tissi was another one of our favorite days, despite the blazing heat.  Once we got off of the jeep trail, all views in every direction were gorgeous.   It was another high elevation day, we climbed over 900 meters, descended 450m and hiked 12 km.    Our first climb was straight up a ski run, from which the views looking back were beautiful and satisfying; we could actually see some of the mountain ranges we had crossed over the last few days.   From there we dropped down to Malga Pioda, a little farm near a very busy trailhead.   There was a nearby chairlift that runs in the summer and there were tons of day hikers, heading to Lago Coldai.   

Lago Coldai

 

The trail from Pioda to Rifugio Coldai had some serious elevation gain, but fortunately for us, the switchbacks were quite kind.   After a little over two hours we reached Rifugio Coldai and then quickly arrived at Forcella Coldai.  

 

The views at Forcella Coldai were incredible.  In one direction we could see down the valley, in the other Lago Coldai standing out against the Civetta.  We dropped down to the lake where I soaked my feet and Lee went for a swim.  Had it been any later in the day, I would have joined him.   

 

Long, hot road to Tissi After our refreshing stop, we climbed up the Forcella Col di Negro.  The climb was relatively subtle, but when we got to the top, we were stunned by just how massive the west face of La Civetta was.  It was absolutely enormous.   It took 90 minutes just to hike from the Forcella down 175 meters to its base.  The trail was rocky and the footing was really poor.  But we loved the delicate yellow poppies that grew out of the granite. 

Civetta and Tissi

 

 

From the base of the Civetta, we had a HOT, steep and long climb to Tissi.  It felt like it went on forever but it was only about an hour or so until we reached the top.  We had made good time that day and arrived around 1:30pm, famished.  I had had my fill of bread, cheese and speck and made Lee eat the sandwiches we had purchased that morning and I ordered up a big plate of pasta and a crostata.  The cute young worker (who was thrilled to speak Italian instead of English with us) thought it hysterical.     AV1 and Rif. Tissi

 

We then enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, looking at the following day’s route, sifting through pictures, and chatting with the other hikers.   We spent most of the afternoon with Russ and Linda, a couple we met the first day and had overlapped with nearly every day since.  They also were our bunk mates for the night since Tissi was one of two places that didn’t offer private rooms.   It was also our first night without a shower, which was unfortunate after the long, hot and hard day we had had. 

 

Rifugio Tissi sits on the top of a peak, directly across from the Civetta.  The main room of the rifugio has one large window, from which you can only see a fraction of the Civetta.  The mountain fills the entire window and is absolutely amazing.   We had heard that going up to the cime (from the rifugio) was well worth the incremental effort.  So before the afternoon escaped us, we stepped outside and headed up to take in the view.  It was one frightening summit, with a sheer and steep drop off, that we approached on our stomachs.  It was also beautiful, in all directions.  My favorite of course was that of the massive Civetta.    It was one of the most phenomenal views we had that week.   

La Civetta

Not long after we were back in the rifugio, than the fastest moving fog we have ever seen rolled in.   The fog completely blocked our view of the Civetta.  Watching it was fascinating, every few minutes the fog would shift and thin and we would catch glimpses of the Civetta before it was covered again.  It was a bit of a magic show.   As fun as it was, it did give us cause to worry for the next day’s weather.  Our next day was a 16km day and we just hoped that the forecasted rain wouldn’t cause us too many problems.   But more than anything, we were super grateful that the weather of the previous six days had been so amazing.  When the Civetta disappeared in the fog, we realized just how easily our trip could have turned out so very differently.    We would have been so disappointed to have missed that incredible mountain!

 

Pictures of our amazing day are here.


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