Day Five of the AV1 - Cinque Torri to Passo Staulanza

December 25, 2015  •  Leave a Comment

Tofana and Beco de Ramarogna July 6, day five, was the longest and hardest day of the entire hike.  Fortunately for us, we awoke very well rested and had the best breakfast on the AV1.  It was more Italian than any of the other breakfasts and they even had biscotti!  I don’t recall what time we got on the trail, but I believe it was before 8am.  We had a lot of ground to cover:  19km with 700 meters of climbing and 1,014 meters of descent.  By the time we arrived at Passo Staulanza I think we counted five or six passes that we had crossed and you couldn’t see signs of where our day had started.

Passo Giau and le Tofane

The first two hours on the trail were beautiful and the temperatures were very comfortable.  We hiked through a gorgeous green valley with more wildflowers of varieties we have ever seen.  Some of our favorites were these dark purple (nearly black) columbine that grew in a small, protected ridge.  About an hour in, we were startled by two leaping and quickly moving chamoix.  They were beautiful and so fast.  We kept hoping we would see more and even catch them in a photo, but we had no such luck.  We were pretty lucky to see even those two.

When we arrived at Passo Giau, it looked really familiar to me.  I then remembered that my dad and I had stopped there on our tour of northern Italy on our bikes in 2006.  It was just as pretty that day as it was 10 years ago.   We paused there briefly, just long enough to load up on water and orient ourselves in the right direction.  

Marmolada and Nuvolau Pano

The next 90 minutes were some of our favorites that day. We hiked from Passo Giau to Forcella Giau and through a beautifully green and flowered bowl with stupendous views of the Sella Ronda group and the Marmalada glacier.  We couldn’t take enough pictures.   The last climb to the top of the forcella was intense, but the views were worth it.  From there we could see the entire, stately Pelmo. 

Nuvolau and Tofana

The next pass we arrived at was Forcella Ambrizola.  Most of the way there was through green, rolling hillside.  But then it turned to rocky and loose footing and the clouds rolled in, thick and dark.  Our plans to have lunch at the forcella were thwarted.  Instead we kept moving until we reached the summit of Col Duro.  We thought the weather was cooperating enough for us to stop and eat our sandwiches, but no sooner did we pull them out than the rain started.   It quickly changed from rain to hailing slushy ice balls.  We quickly pulled out our rain gear and made for lower elevation as quickly as possible.  The rain made the rocky, rough trail even more difficult.   We attempted to stop at a small, abandoned farm, Malga Prendera for a few minutes but the rain picked up again and so we made a dash for it.  The sky was too dark for comfort and we wanted to get as far away from the anticipated downpour as possible. 

Pelmo

Somehow (and fortunately for us), the downpour never came and the sun came out.  But with the sun came the heat.  For the remainder of the day it felt like we were hiking in a sauna.  We made it to Citta di Fiume (another small rifugio) in decent enough time, but we were so exhausted and still had another hour and a half still to go.  While beautiful, most of the trails we had encountered were rough and rocky and our feet felt it.  The last stretch that day across the rocky scree at the base of the enormous Pelmo in the baking sun nearly did me in. 

Hiking around Pelmo

After being on the trail for just over eight hours (stops included) we finally arrived at Passo Staulanza.  We were a bit disappointed to discover that the trail was on a highway and most of the people who stayed there that night hadn’t even come by foot! The perk of this place was that it did have Magnum ice cream, wifi and a private room with a bathroom and shower.  After the day we had, those were all welcomed luxuries. 

Pictures from our day are here.  


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